Simple At Home Photo Set Up

This works well for small products -

1) Find a large sheet of white paper or lightweight card (bristol board, cover stock) A matt - not shiny - surface is better and without any 'texture'. Smooth and even as possible.

2) Get some tape and find a place where the direct sun isn't shining - a south facing window, or a shaded but fully lit spot. If you put an item down and it casts a shadow, you're not in the right spot - look for a spot where no direct sunrays can get to your objects.

3) If the place you chose has a wall, that's great, you can tape your white paper/card onto the wall. If not, you'll need to find something to tape it onto - a book like an old encyclopedia if it's a small piece of paper, or the back of a chair or similar if it's larger.

4) Place the card so it curves gently onto the floor or table - don't let it crease.

5) Place your object as far forward on the white surface as you can - this makes it easier for the backdrop to fade in your photograph.

6) If you use a prop - like in this sample, make sure any extra bits of strings or such are tucked back and taped down - as long as you can't see the tape either! And KISS - Keep It Super Simple - don't overpower your product with noisy props that steal the show.

7) Now, set up your photograph - choose a setting without a flash - the flash is just like the sun, it will cast strong hard shadows that detract from your product. If you have a point-and-shoot, it should have a function to select 'no flash'. If you have an SLR, choose the appropriate ISO - maybe 100 or 200, choose an f-stop that is fairly open - this will blur the background more and just remember to use a setting that doesn't auto-flash.

8) Before snapping, make sure the whole of the object is contained within your white space - if it goes over an edge you'll have to move it closer to the back.

9) Snap.

10) Crop your photo to cut out any stuff you don't want like the wall behind - and a simple auto contrast should be all the tweaking you need so you don't have to have fancy software to fix it up at all.

Porcelain Vessel Pendant - Finola Prescott

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HOW TO MAKE COLD PORCELAIN

Cold Porcelain is available as a commercially made mix you can buy - but you can also make a similar clay yourself from three simple ingredients. This clay is fun to use, dries super hard and can make solid chunky pieces or wafer thin translucent pieces. You can colour it with paints or paint on it when dry - add glitters, sand, etc and it sticks easily onto wood or glass to decorate items. Varnish to make fully waterproof.

So, let's make cold porcelain -

Recipe

The recipe will be different depending mainly on the brand of glue you use – for this one I used Elmer’s Glue-All – a white pva glue.

Ingredients

2 cups Glue
½ cup water
3 cups cornstarch
2 tablespoons baby oil

Tools

Plastic microwavable bowl
Strong wooden spoon or flat stick
Cup and Tbs measures
Spatula or blunt knife

Method

Put all the ingredients in your plastic microwavable bowl, stir together until they are fairly well combined.

Note, you don’t need to sieve the cornstarch and you don’t need to mix until it’s really even – just break up any big lumps.

Pop it in the microwave -

NOTE – all microwave ovens are different – some cook super fast, some very slow.

Your cooking times will also depend also on the size of your bowl in relation to the amount of clay you are making – big bowl, little clay, it may take longer, big bowl, lots of clay may be slow at first then cook really fast once it gets hot.

So, err on the slow side at first – I do 1 min @ 10% or the lowest setting first – if it is barely warm I move to 1 min @ 30%.

Each time you finish a microwave session, take the bowl out and stir the clay – as it cooks the edges with harden first so it’s important to scrape them and stir them in.

You don’t need to make a smooth paste, just break up lumps and pull in the edges to into the mix.

When the mix starts to get significantly thicker, harder to scrape off and stir, shorten your microwave times to 45s

It should take about 4-5 minutes in all to get to the point where the mix sticks to the spoon/stick. As it gets thick enough to hold it’s own shape but will still stick to your finger when you touch it, shorten your times to 30s

When it's ready it will hold fairly well together when you mix it in the bowl and it will not stick to your fingers anymore when you press your fingers in.
BUT it's okay to take it out when it's still a little sticky and knead in more cornstarch: In general, it's better to UNDERcook a little than to overcook.

Now you are ready to take it out of the bowl and knead it.

Sprinkle a generous layer of cornstarch on your table and over your hands.

Turn out your lump of clay, scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl as best you can, then sprinkle some cornstarch in the bowl and scrape some more – the rest will come off more easily as the cornstarch dries it.

Don’t worry if some is left back – let it dry and then it will peel off very easily – this is my recommended clean up method.

If you choose to wash out your bowl, make sure you allow a lot of water to flow so the gluey mix does not clog your drains.

But, don’t clean up now – you need to pay attention to finishing your clay – so, cover your hands in lots of cornstarch and knead your dough.

Caution – your clay may be very hot – so check first before you plunge your hands in. But start kneading as soon as it reaches a temperature you can handle – if you leave it too long, a crust will start to form.

Dust your hands - no, smother them in cornstarch - and start to knead.

You’ll find it easily kneads into smooth consistency dough. Pull it apart to get the insides to the outside and make sure the whole dough get mixed in during kneading.

Look out for when it starts to have ‘cracks’ that don’t stick together – it’s ready at that point or when it forms a nice roundish lump of clay that doesn’t stick to you or the table.

Put it in a plastic bag and tie it.

NOTE: always keep clay you are not using in plastic sealed off from the air – this clay dries quickly and when it half dries, it is difficult to form good shapes from it, so keep it wrapped up.

Colouring The Clay

You can easily colour this clay using any water based paint - acrylic, poster, watercolour, food colouring will all work. Some oil paints will also work but they may cause it to dry very slowly or may not mix in and will exude oil so be careful and try it out on a small bit first.

NOTE: Opaque paints will make your clay more opaque, translucent paints will help keep it see-through if you want to make decorations that the light will shine through.

Whatever paint you choose, take a lump of clay, make a small well in the middle by pushing down on the clay with your fingers. Squeeze a little paint into the well and then wrap the edges of the clay over the well.

Don’t worry if paint sneaks out – as long as it doesn’t spurt out all over you, just keep pulling the clay and wrapping it over itself in any random way and the colour will mix in.

Just keep an eye out for the clay getting too wet from the paint – if so, pick up any cornstarch or drier bits of clay left on the table with the clay or if necessary, sprinkle more cornstarch onto the clay.

You’ll find it can get quite wet without becoming sticky if it is made well. And at the other end of the spectrum, don’t mix it until it starts to dry out either! You can add in more paint i.f you want a stronger colour

You can choose to mix until it’s a uniform colour or stop when it is still marbled with natural and your colour. You can marble two or three colours together also – just roll out two coils and twist them around each other, then fold and twist and roll, fold, twist and roll over and over until you get to a marble pattern you like.

When you’re done colouring, and marbling, pop the clay in a plastic bag and tie it off.

Let us know if you try this out - and if you have any questions - just pop it all in the comments box - love to hear from you.

If you enjoyed this tutorial please help publicize the blog by clicking on the ShareThis button below or or sending your friends to have a look - and why not sign up for the RSS feed or to receive email notification of new posts!

Copyright:
You may download this tutorial for personal use or use in your classroom - if you wish to use it for any other purpose, please use the contact form to ask permission.